Monday, March 24, 2008

PITA Visits the Hospital

Those of you who know a little about good King PITA will recall that his lungs are a bit, how should we say, temperamental. (If I were rich, we’d say they were “eccentric”…) Having endured the wonders of childhood asthma, we could say that I’m pulmonarily challenged, and let me tell ya, my lungs are giving me a fit here in China. The air quality is far from ideal. Pollution is at an all time high, and with all the construction going on in Nanjing (I wake up each morning and it seems some fairies have popped up yet another building…), there is a constant dusty haze about. So, a few weeks ago, I was hacking away like a nicotine-addicted cat coughing up cigarette butts. Not pretty.

Finally, one of our caring staff members demanded I go to the doctor. I had plans to go to the campus clinic, but my good friend Ryan (one of our excellent staff members) warned me otherwise. He recounted a brief personal story that persuaded me: one of his friends fell off his bed and hurt his side. He went to the campus clinic, and the good doctor told him all was fine. A few days later, his side and back hurt him even worse, so he went to the hospital downtown. After a quick x-ray, they discovered one of his kidneys was badly damaged and he needed surgery… So, needless to say, Ryan has little faith in the campus clinic. Sure, it’s only one example, but it was enough for me.

Off I went to the hospital one early Saturday morning. One of my assistants, Cindy, met me at the campus front gate, and we hopped into a little “gypsy cab” for downtown. (We don’t get too many official cabs out by the new campus, so we take these little unregistered local cabs into town. The Chinese assistants bargain a good rate before hand and off we go.) We met up with Ryan at the downtown campus and made our way to the bus stop. Yep, more construction on that particular road, so I was choking on fumes and construction dust, waiting for the bus. (Apparently, many roads downtown are continually being “repaired.” Actually, the local government officials have special arrangements with certain construction companies who seem to make lots of money building, tearing up, and repairing the roads…)

Two jammed bus rides later, and we reached the hospital designated for general practice and internal medicine. Passport in hand, I registered at the front desk (you need your passport for everything here, from exchanging money, to buying cell phones, to visiting the hospital). From there, we went upstairs to another counter to set up a medical file. From there, we went to another wing to find an available doctor. There was a long corridor with several rooms, and in each room were two-three doctors with a crowd of people inside the rooms and waiting in the hall. We wrestled our way through the crowds—like fighting for a cab on a busy street—and finally got an available doctor. I described my symptoms, with my assistants translating, and the doctor ordered a chest x-ray. We then went to another floor and registered at the radiology department. I got a big envelope and waited a short time at another door. The x-ray technicians took my envelope and zapped my chest with some x-rays. I was then told to come back in a few hours to pick up my films.

So, off we went to have some lunch. We walked around for a bit and found a really neat little restaurant specializing in “home cooking.” Basically, the dishes were traditional Chinese country style food. We ordered different dishes: chicken, tofu, a unique vegetable, and beef. Wow, was that yummy.

After lunch, we headed back to the hospital. The films were ready, and I took them back to the same doctor. (In China, patients handle their own test results and their medical records.) After pushing through a smaller crowd, I handed him the films. He looked at them and asked if I had asthma. I explained I did as a child. He told me I basically had some infection in my lungs, and prescribed some antibiotics and Rubitussin. We went down to the pharmacy, purchased my drugs, and then headed out for some fun.

I wanted to buy an electric guitar (you can get some nice “knock-off” guitars really cheap), and Ryan had a store in mind. This time, we took a cab—I wasn’t in the mood for more bus rides. The shop was an interesting little joint with young Chinese playing old Beatles tunes and sad Chinese love songs on acoustics out front. The owner took me into a glass room in the the back with an old Fender, plugged me into a little practice amp, and I jammed for a bit. A few songs later, and I looked up, and there was a small crowd of Chinese folks staring at me through the glass doors. I asked the owner to play a bit, and he busted out some rockin’ riffs and a few metal solos. Very cool. We had fun, but he really didn’t have what I was looking for, so we bid farewell and went off for some dinner.

Ryan asked if I had ever had “hot pot.” “Nope, what’s that?” I inquired. “Ok, ok, good, you’ll see, you’ll see.” He took us to this restaurant that was crowded, really loud, and steamy. Each table had a stainless steel pot divided in half. On one side was a red broth and on the other was a yellow broth. A gas burner underneath heated the broths to boiling. Then we ordered tons of raw food: thinly sliced beef, sliced lamb, chunks of pig stomach (tastes like squid, but a bit chewier), duck’s blood (yep, you read that correctly—it’s congealed and looks like red tofu and tastes a little like liver flavored tofu), fish balls (like meat balls made with fish), different kinds of mushrooms, various types of green leafy vegetables, and tofu. With your chopsticks, you take a food item and dip it into the boiling broth. The red broth is SUPER spicy (basically a pepper broth), and the yellow broth is mild (like basic chicken broth). When it’s cooked through, you take it out and eat it. Wow, that was delicious and fun. You spend hours eating, talking, laughing, drinking, and eating some more. It was a wonderful way to end a most adventurous day of healing. The doctor healed my body, and the new friendships I made that day healed the soul.

Monday, March 17, 2008

King PITA's Digs

Some of you may be wondering what sort of digs good ol’ King PITA is enjoying here in Nanjing. I must say that the local hospitality coordinators have done an excellent job at providing lodgings for His Majesty. That said, We (yes, this is the royal “We”) have had to make some adaptations and adjustments. We must continue to remind Ourselves that We are here to teach and to work—this is not Club Med (of course We have not yet been invited to a Club Med—the nerve of those folks—but We can imagine…). There are indeed many excellent opportunities for fun (more on that in later blogs…)

We have been provided with a very simple yet comfortable royal suite, uh, I mean faculty apartment. Most Chinese universities provide housing for their faculty (mainly junior faculty and graduate students who are teaching at the university and preparing for more advanced graduate work). For a single king, I mean professor, the apartment is quite nice. There is a “great room” that serves as a nice mead hall (dining room with a table and four chairs). Off the mead hall is a small kitchen with a refrigerator, toaster oven, microwave oven, and small gas stove. Also off the mead hall is the throne room. I’m still getting used to having the throne in the shower room—whilst showering the throne is cascaded with water, so one should always do the royal business before showering… . On the other side of the mead hall are two nice rooms: the royal bed chamber and the executive office/entertainment chamber. The bed chamber anticipates a royal visit with a large king sized bed; however, my royal back is unaccustomed to the Chinese mattress which is as hard as the lovely marble floor. I’m told the Chinese believe that a firm mattress is better for the back, but me arse and back still beg to differ. The office/entertainment chamber has a leather sofa, a large desk with computer, and a large hutch with TV (but no channels just yet). However, DVDs and player are very cheap here, so We can watch many movies.

There is also a lovely small terrace out back which doubles as an area to dry Our clothes. We cannot afford to be bashful here and must hang Our clothing for the world to see. So, when the emperor has no clothes, all the neighbors get a glimpse of the royal undergarments. Now that it is getting warmer out (it’s been in the 60s and 70s during the day lately), We will hold court on the terrace whilst enjoying a pipe and a large bottle of Tsing Tao (I must say I enjoy the bottling practices here—they don’t usually mess around with little 12oz cans…ha ha).

We have had to grow accustomed to some differences here. If your royal court is not one for adaptation, then I recommend staying in your motherland. Our apartments are very far from campus—a ten-minute bike ride or a twenty-minute walk. We are getting some good exercise, and We have lost a bit of weight (for which We are most thankful). Heating is NOT a big priority here, even though it can be bone-chillingly cold. I really feel for the students, as they have NO heat whatsoever in their chambers, nor is there heat in any of the classrooms. At least they have provided faculty with heat/AC units, but only in the bed chamber and the office. That’s right…there is NO heat in the throne room. Needless to say, during the cold months, business on the throne is conducted with great speed and the occasional gasp upon first sitting down. ‘Nough said… Also, the throne room has a tendency to flood, since it is in the same room as the royal showers. There is no chambermaid, so I have become skilled in the use of a mop. Thankfully, the electricity issue has been resolved. Now that we have a wonderful assistant (Ryan is his English name), we can get our electricity replenished quickly without any interruption in service. Our Internet is regulated by local authorities, and it is turned off at precisely 11pm and turned back on at 7am. Thankfully, they keep Our electricity on 24/7, but the students have their power turned off at 11pm. But, students being students, they use battery power to play computer games on their laptops or to read by flashlight (unfortunately, more of the former than the latter).

Overall, life is good here for King PITA. Stay tuned for more on the Nanjing scene…

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

A Passage to Nanjing

We're on the van to Nanjing
Aboard the Shanghai Express
We’ll hit the stops along the way
We only stop for the best…

Click to hear tune

I recorded this really bad rendition of Rush’s “A Passage to Bangkok” before leaving NY in anticipation of taking the bullet train from Shanghai to Nanjing. However, our travel plans changed a bit. I was able to stay an extra day in Shanghai to celebrate my birthday and the Lantern Festival, but the tradeoff was not taking the train to Nanjing. But, that’s OK, as we plan to make occasional trips to Shanghai during the semester, and there will be other opportunities to take the bullet train.

On Friday morning (February 22), NUPT sent a van to pick up the NYIT China campus dean and another professor at the Pudong Airport, and then they came to my hotel and picked me up. After a quick dumpling, bun, and tea for breakfast, we piled into a van or minibus and headed off to Nanjing. On the way out, we stopped at the China office of Pearson Longman Publishers to check on our book orders for the upcoming semester. (Oh yeah, I’m here to teach…so I guess some official work is in order. Ha ha.) We met some very nice book representatives, and after making a slight mistake in accepting business cards, I learned the proper way: accept the card with two hands and hold onto it instead of stuffing it in the wallet (which is customary in the West but which communicates disrespect in the East). Thankfully, these book reps are used to dealing with “barbarians” from the West, and they didn’t think twice about it.

Piling back onto the minibus, we were off for Nanjing. The one professor, Chris, was wiped from the flight, and he was nodding off, but Jim, the dean, was wide awake. So, we chatted for about two hours about China, its development, and things to expect on campus. At around noon, we pulled into a truck stop along the highway and ate lunch. We went into a typical cafeteria that looked like something from Soviet Russia. It was a large room with tables and benches bolted to the floor. On one side of the room there was a small line to purchase a meal ticket. We then took our ticket to another wall counter and then picked three meats and three vegetables that were put on our stainless steel trays. Rice and soup were included. Typically, the Chinese do not have a drink with their meal. They may have tea beforehand, have a clear broth or soup sometime during the meal (which serves as a drink), and then may end the meal with tea. We were out in the country, somewhere between Shanghai and Nanjing, and we were clearly an oddity for most people in the cafeteria. There were a few stares from curious folks wondering why these “barbarians” were eating in this institutional cafeteria. A quick wave or a nod and a “ni hao” usually brought a smile or sometimes a shy turning away of the eyes.

With our bellies full, the minibus took us on to Nanjing. We finally arrived at our campus apartments and unloaded our luggage. Our luggage was ridiculously heavy, as we had to bring a lot of books with us. Our apartments were on the fourth and fifth floors. We “girded our loins” to carry our luggage up, and suddenly a worker showed up to help. He was a little man with some years on him, as his deeply wrinkled face revealed. He bent over and in a quick flip hoisted the heaviest suitcase up onto his shoulder, and up he went! I couldn’t believe it—this was the strongest little man I’ve ever seen. (OK, maybe the little man in Saudi Arabia I saw carrying a refrigerator on his back in the marketplace has this guy beat, but not by much….)

After an hour or so, I was mostly unpacked and settled into the apartment. Jim recommended we get our cell phones that same day. Chris was too tired from the trip, so Jim and I headed to Nanjing city in search of phones. There are no landlines in our apartments, and few people use landline phones here anyway. A cell phone is a must. I was introduced to the gypsy cabs. These are small (really small) unregistered taxis that run from campus to town (about a 20 minute ride). You know, the kind of cab you negotiate the fare before you get in. We got a good rate and off we went.

It was starting to get dark as we arrived in town. Jim showed me how to use the subway (which is brand new, clean, and very efficient), and he took me on a quick tour of the main “centers” of Nanjing. We couldn’t find any cell phone stores, so we tried to get directions from a young student in a videogame store. That didn’t go very well, but we all smiled and nodded and off we went. We finally found a huge bookstore, which Jim was trying to find anyway, because cell phones are often sold in bookstores here. Dunno why, but there it is. After some pointing through class counters, I finally bought a simple Nokia for real cheap. Next was to get the internal chip with my assigned Chinese cell number. That was in another department. I took a number and waited for a clerk. After some more hand gestures, they figured out what we needed and started a strange process of getting a number. They listed a ton of numbers that I could choose from (for some reason, some numbers were cheaper than others, but we didn’t know why). I finally got a number, and then they made copies of my passport (you need your passport always here). Hopefully, no one steals my phone and commits a crime with it, because the cops will come after me… . Unfortunately, Jim’s old phone wasn’t compatible with the card he bought, and by the time we figured that out, the phone counter was closed. At least I had a phone that he could use in the meantime.

It was after 9pm by this time. We found a great little Japanese restaurant and had dome awesome noodles for dinner. Jim was really tired by this time (remember, he had just arrived that morning after a 15 hour flight, did some business in Shanghai, rode to Nanjing, and walked all over downtown). It was time to go back to campus. Well, it was after 11pm, and the busses and subway were closed. Taxis were our only recourse. But it was the same recourse for everyone else…. It took forever to get a taxi. The Chinese are far more aggressive, and we lost so many cabs. We even tried to stand on opposite sides of the street to optimize our chances of getting a cab. Nope. We walked around to find a hotel so we could hail a cab there. Nope. Poor Jim was so exhausted, he actually sat down on the street, leaned against a pole, and fell asleep. I finally got us a cab, and home we went. It was after midnight by the time we got to the campus apartments and crashed. Whoa, what a day—welcome to Nanjing.